Two new Vallisneria and four oldies!

Two new Vallisneria and four oldies!

by Troels Andersen, Ole Pedersen and Claus Christensen

Vallisneria has been known in the aquarium hobby for quite some years meaning that most aquarists have tried it out in their own tank at a certain time. Generally, Vallisneria species are robust plants and therefore some of them are really suitable for the beginner. However, a couple of the new Vallisneria are different from the traditional types and thus, interesting for the specialist, too. In this article we will review the entire group but with emphasis on Vallisneria nana and Vallisneria americana "Mini Twister" which are Tropica's two new Vallisneria with entirely new possible applications in the aquarium.

Vallisneria is not easily confused with other aquarium plants apart, perhaps, from Sagittaria which shares some of the morphological features. Vallisneria has strap-shaped leaves and spreads by runners. However, the leaves vary considerably from species to species and even from variety to variety making it interesting and suitable for various uses in the aquarium. The colour of the leaves varies from dark green to dark red colours but the greatest variation is found in the leaf morphology and the maximum size of the plant. The maximum length varies from less than 10 cm to several feet and from terete to very broad leaves. The latter is very robust and is often used in Cichild aquaria, while the smaller types may be used for foreground or middleground purposes where the strap-shaped and sometimes spirally shaped leaves offer a good contrast to other leaf shapes in the aquarium.

Vallisneria is know from most parts of the tropics and subtropics and belongs to the groups of obligate waterplants since they are unable to survive if the water body dries out during the dry season. Therefore, it is mostly found in permanent waters where it may form large continuous patches. As most other obligate waterplants, it has evolved a specialized pollination strategy when reproducing sexually. The male flowers are released under water but since they are less dense than water they immediately float to the surface. Here, they are trapped by the female flower which are supported by a long flower stalk floating on the water surface. Hence, the pollination is not carried out by insects but by water movements carrying the pollen to the female flower. Characteristically, Vallisneria prefers hard water and is rarely found in soft and acid water in nature. The robust types are not demanding and do not need CO2 addition since they in nature occur on shallow water in lakes which are naturally poor in free CO2.

It is often claimed that Cryptocorynes and Vallisneria cannot grow together because they excrete chemical substances that hinder growth of other plants (a phenomenon called allelopathy). However, this is a myth! But since they prefer quite different waters one of them will overgrow the other and take over. If the aquarium is relatively dark and contains soft water, the Cryptocorynes will win the interspecific competition, whereas if the aquarium has much light and hard water, Vallisneria will overgrow the Cryptocorynes. In an aquarium with conditions somewhat in between the two extremes, they will coexist without problems.

Confusing names
Within the in past 25 years, the Vallisneria genus has gone through a major revision. Generally, this means that Vallisneria sold in the aquarium shops belongs to either Vallisneria americana or Vallisneria spiralis. In fact, V. spiralis are not the plants with spiral leaves as indicated by the name. On the contrary, "spiralis" refers to the flower stalk which in spirally shapes in the species V. spiralis. Apparently, the two species only occur side by side few places in the world in for example the Philippines and New Guinea. Australia, however, where one of the species is from, harbours many different species and worldwide, more than 20 species have been described.

Vallisneria nana with long slender leaves
Vallisneria nana (Tropica No. 056C) is the latest Vallisneria species in Tropica's production. It has been included in the assortment because the dark green leaves are considerably narrower than for other Vallisneria species and also, the maximum leaf length is slightly shorter than for most other species. This plant is very suitable for middleground purposes because it is less dense than other Vallisneria species but it may also be used as background plant in smaller aquaria.

In its natural habitats, which are muddy creeks in northern Australia, Vallisneria nana's leaves are stiff and only about 15 cm long, while the maximum leaf length in the aquarium is in the range of 30-80 cm and with soft, flexible leaves probably because of the different light and nutrient conditions in the aquarium. It is fast growing and not very demanding and thus, it shrives well in low and high light, in soft and hard water and in a broad temperature range from 20-28 °C.

Vallisneria nana readily forms runners once a good root system has been developed and in this way, it soon forms dense and compact stands in the aquarium. In Tropica, the plant is potted and allowed to form new roots in our nursery before it is sold in the shops, which means that the plant is more robust and better acclimated when received by the aquarist. Each pot contains six to eight individuals which should be spread out in a small group of plants depending on the layout of the aquarium. Solitary plants typically produce short leaves while individuals in groups tend to set much longer leaves.

Vallisneria americana "Mini Twister" for the foreground
As indicated by its name, Vallisneria americana "Mini Twister" (Tropica No. 056B) is a rather small plant. The short leaves (10-15+ cm) make it particularly useful as foreground and middleground plant and the twisted leaves provides a colourful asset when light is reflected by the leaf surfaces.

There are several Vallisneria plants with twisted and spirally shaped leaves and their precise origin is unknown. However, a single individual with spirally formed leaves was recovered in the Torta Lake in Japan many years ago and it is thought that this plant has been the "ancestor" to many of the varieties which are now found on the market. We have obtained "Mini Twister" from a farmer in Asia who sent us a sample with four different Vallisneria for evaluation. "Mini Twister" was chosen because of its size and today it is produced by the Oriental nursery in Singapore before it is shipped to Denmark where we allow it to develop a good root system before it is sold in the shops.

Like Vallisneria nana, "Mini Twister" readily produces runners in particular when the substrate is rich in nutrients. Handling and planting upon receiving the plant are similar to Vallisneria nana.

The other four Vallisneria plants in Tropica's production
The other four Vallisneria plants in Tropica's production vary in leaf length as well as in leaf morphology. Three of them belong to Vallisneria americana while the last one is a Vallisneria spiralis.

Vallisneria americana (natans) (Tropica No. 055)
The leaves are narrow (up to 10 mm wide) and strap-shaped, middle long (50-100 cm) and with 3-5 longitudinal nerves. Transverse nerves are randomly spread over the entire leaf. The plants originate from SE Asia where it occurs in huge populations in standing as well as running waters. It is an easy and undemanding beginner's plant having no particular requirements for neither light nor CO2 and it grows in a wide temperature interval from 18-28 °C. It is easily propagated via runners.

Vallisneria americana (gigantea) (Tropica No. 054)
As indicated by its former name, this is the biggest of all varieties in our production. It should be placed in the background or the end wall in order to prevent it from dominating the entire layout. Apart from its size, it also differs from other Vallisneria by its darker green colours. Opinions differ when it comes to the growth requirements of this plant but generally we recommend good light in order to avoid to much self-shading by the large and robust leaves. In addition, a nutrient rich substrate stimulates good growth and production of runners.

Vallisneria americana var. biwaensis (Tropica No. 056)
This variety has narrow (3-5 mm), strap-shaped, 5-50 cm long leaves and produces beautifully twisted leaves with longitudinal nerves. This plant is particularly attractive as middleground plant or even foreground plant in large aquaria. This plant is a bit more light requiring than most other Vallisneria types but apart from than it is undemanding regarding water hardness and temperature.

Vallisneria spiralis "Tiger" (Tropica No. 055A)
Tropica has specially selected this plant among many varieties from SE Asia because it is both beautiful, robust and fast growing. It is an excellent beginner's plant which grows even under critical conditions; it is absolutely the easiest of all Vallisneria varieties. The common name is derived from the transverse stripes on the leaves (see the insert). Like the other Vallisneria, "Tiger" also spreads by runners and thus, it is easy to propagate vegetatively.

Of the more than 20 known Vallisneria species, Tropica has chosen to produce 6 types that can be used for various purposes by the beginner as well as by the speicialist. We always recommend consulting the specific growth requirements since they vary quite a lot among the 6 types. The two new forms, Vallisneria nana and Vallisneria americana "Min Twister" are both suitable for small aquaria or for foreground and middleground plants in large aquaria. They are attractive in most types of layouts because of their special leaf morphology which always produces a nice contrast to the other plants in the aquarium.

Vallisneria americana "Mini Twister" in the aquarium (photo: Jan Ole Pedersen)

Vallisneria nana (Tropica No. 056C)	Vallisneria americana "Mini Twister" (Tropica No. 056B)

Vallisneria americana (natans)(Tropica No. 055)	Vallisneria americana var. biwaensis (Tropica No. 056)

Vallisneria spiralis "Tiger"(Tropica No. 055A)

A: Vallisneria americana "Mini Twister, B: Vallisneria americana var. biwaensis, C: Vallisneria americana (natans), D: Vallisneria nana and E: Vallisneria spiralis "Tiger" Startup Internal filter and heater are placed and attached to the aquarium. Decorate the aquarium with wood and rock. Fill up with water until the gravel is saturated with water. Remember to spray the plants with water continually whilst planting to prevent the plants from drying out. The aquarium is filled with water and the Before you start... To help you with the start up of your aquarium we have listed some fundamental issues that are important and can influence the results you experience. Location Do not place the aquarium in direct sun light as it will certainly provoke algae problems. Place it in a dark corner with minimal ambient light. The aquarium itself will bring light and atmosphere to the room. Place on a stable surface in level. Aquarium The aquarium is the housing of your water environment and should look subtle without distracting from the content. The size of the aquarium is your choice but smaller aquariums (less than 50 L) can be more difficult to maintain than larger tanks, as environmental stability is reduced in smaller volumes of water. Decoration Materials for decoration are for example wood, roots and stones. By using decorative materials you will be able to create depth, nature-like landscapes, and options for attaching plants. To avoid damage to the bottom of the aquarium you can place a piece of Styrofoam underneath larger rocks. Light Light is the energy source for all plants. Plants need light to grow and thrive but their need for light varies. A good rule of thumb would be 0.5 Watt per Litre of water. Read carefully the instructions of the lamp's power (in Watts) and select a lamp with enough Wattage compared to the aquarium volume. The composition of the light colours can vary from warm to cold shades. Plants adapts best to light as close to daylight as possible. Colours appears also best in daylight. Light should only be switched on for 8-10 hours a day - more hours will only benefit algae! For the start up (about 2 weeks) 6 hours light a day will be sufficient. Heating your aquarium is necessary when plants and fish require a higher temperature than the ambient temperature. Suitable temperatures are common for most plants. To achieve good plant growth we recommend a temperature of 22-25 degrees Celsius. Note that some pump types have and internal heat source. Fertilizer Fertilizers are a must in order to achieve good plant health and growth. The addition of liquid fertilizer can be recommended for all types of plants, and a good substrate for plants with thriving roots. See page 96-97 for further information of Tropica's fertilizer series. Pump/filter The function for the pump and/or filter is to create water circulation. It helps bring the biological balance into the aquarium and to avoid stagnant water in some parts of the aquarium which can cause problems. A filter system will clean the water mechanically and biologically to prevent the water from becoming dirty and polluted. But it's important to remember that a filter system does not replace the need to change water. Carbon dioxide CO2, carbon dioxide, is very important for all plants. Only very few plants thrives with the limited amount of CO2 in an aquarium that does not have any CO2 equipment connected. The supply of CO2 will increase growth, colours, and lushness of the plants significantly. It's easy to test the effect of CO2 in your aquarium by adding a cup of mineral water per 100 L every day. Plants do only take up CO2 when the lights are on. Your dealer carries a large selection of CO2 equipment for your aquarium, from simple, manual methods to fully automated systems. On www.tropica.com you can see the diagram for recommended CO2 concentrations depending on water hardness. Substrate The bottom layer is fundamental for the development of the plant roots. The gravel grain size varies, but it's important that both water and nutrition can circulate. Gravel with a grain size of 2-4 mm is ideal for aquarium plants. The bottom layer can be supplemented with a nutrient-rich substrate if it has not already been added to the product. 10 good advices on how to get a good result Purpose Make up your mind about what you want to achieve with your aquarium, how much money do you want to spend, and how much time do you want to spend on maintaining it. Layout and decorations Make a design for your aquarium layout before you contact your local dealer. To help create depth and space for both plants and animals it is recommended to use decoration materials such as wood, roots and stones. Plants must be planted according to their size and to their need of light (the light in the corners of the aquarium are much less than in the centre of the aquarium). Select your plants Select your plants in relation to the choice of technical equipment and also by bearing in mind the time you are prepared to spend on maintaining your aquarium. Difficult plants require good light and CO2 to achieve good results. Planting Follow the instructions for planting to get the best possible results. Remember that most plants are fast growing so make sure that the plants will get enough room from the start. Fast growing plants Fast growing plants take up a lot of nutrients and bring good balance to the aquarium. They do not necessarily have to remain a part of the layout but they are important when starting up the aquarium. Algae eaters Fish, shrimp and snails are effective algae eaters and by combining them in the aquarium they can control different algae types. They should be put into the aquarium as soon as possible after the start. Contact your dealer for more specific details. Water change You cannot change too much water! Change around 25% several times during the first couple of weeks and subsequently once a week. 25% per week minimum is the recommendation and up to 50% if there are signs of algae. Fertilizer A nutrient-rich substrate in the bottom layer is sufficient during the start-up of the aquarium. Wait for plant growth before starting with liquid fertilizer. During the start-up add only 50% or less of the dose recommended until new growth forms. Begin by using a fertilizer without nitrogen and phosphorous. Pruning Help you aquarium to maintain a good balance by pruning the plants frequently. You can prune them back considerably! Re-planting of stems and runners is recommended to maintain good growth. Prevent algae Prevention is better than cure. By using fast growing plants, algae eating fish, frequent water change and by mechanical removal you can reduce algae problems. When necessary turn off lights or minimise photoperiods too. Tips and tricks for planting Code Type Examples Planting A Stem plants Hygrophila, Alternanthera, Nesaea Remove the pot and the mineral wool carefully from the roots. Plant the stems at intervals and spread the loose roots into the bottom layer. Pinch off the slips when trimming and they can be planted in the bottom layer. B Stem plants Cabomba, Egeria Bunches. Remove the lowest leaves and cover the remaining lowest leaves with the bottom layer - plant the stems at intervals. Pinch off the top shoots and plant them in the bottom layer. C Tuberous Aponogeton, Nymphaea Remove any pots and mineral wool and cover the tuber with the bottom layer. The shoot should be above the bottom layer. Remove any sick leaves before planting. Remove whole leaves from the base when trimming. Tubers can be kept from two to four months (store in damp, cool conditions). D Rhizomatous Anubias, Microsorum Remove the pot and the mineral wool carefully from the roots. The root stem (rhizome) should not be covered fully by the bottom layer or it will rot. Plants can also be fastened to a stone or roots. Trim by cutting pieces from the root stem. E Rosulate Echinodorus Remove the pot and the mineral wool carefully from the roots. Remove the outermost leaves as they will die under water under any circumstances and the plant will rapidly develop new leaves adapted to conditions under water. Shorten the roots and spread them when planting. Remove whole leaves from the base when trimming, pinch off offshoots and plant them in the bottom layer. F Rosulate Cryptocoryne Remove the pot and the mineral wool carefully from the roots. Remove any sick leaves. Plant the individual plants in the pot at intervals. Remove whole leaves from the base or whole plants when trimming. G Stolon Glossostigma, Hemianthus Remove the pot and cut the mineral wool block so that about 1 cm is left together with the plants. Use this mineral wool as an anchor to hold the plant in the bottom layer. The pot contains many plants that can be divided into several groups (typically four to eight) and planted at intervals. Trim with scissors like a lawn. H Stolon Marsilea, Eleocharis Remove the pot and cut the mineral wool block so that about 1 cm is left together with the plants. Use this mineral wool as an anchor to hold the plants in the bottom layer. Then cut down the plants until they are about 1 cm above the mineral wool. They will rapidly develop new leaves adapted to conditions under water. The pot contains many plants that can be divided into several groups (typically four to eight) and planted at intervals. Trim or thin with scissors. I Stolon Vallisneria, Lilaeopsis Remove the pot and the mineral wool carefully from the roots. Remove any sick leaves. Plant the individual plants in the pot at intervals. Remove whole leaves from the base or whole plants when trimming. J Floating plants Salvinia, Ceratophyllum Portions. Place them on the surface (Ceratophyllum can also be planted in the bottom layer). Trim by removing material from the surface. K Mosses Riccia, Monosolenium Portions. Can be used as floating plants or fastened to a stone or root where they will form cushions or carpets. Trim by removing material or with scissors. L Bulb Crinum Separate the bulb carefully from the mineral wool. Remove any sick leaves before planting the bulb in the bottom layer. Parts of the bulb must be above the bottom layer. Trim by removing whole leaves from the base. M Various Cladophora, Ceratopteris Examples of plants that can be used in different ways - search for information on these and other plants on our web site.

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